I worked at home until noon on Monday and then headed to campus. I called Doug Moe at the Wisconsin State Journal to go over the short list of untried vendors of Chicago Hot Dogs. Moe usually knows of what he writes.
We agreed that Coconate's Chicago Trattoria's vending cart located located at Charter and Johnson was the obvious choice.
I was determined to be reasonable.
Two weeks ago Sunday, Sara and I took a drive to Chicago's North Shore to look at historic homes which included a drive by Frank Lloyd Wright's Willets House.
After a stop at Poochie's, 3832 Dempster Skokie which gets favorable reviews of its fat laden menu, standards were high.
Poochie's is exceptional. The Vienna hot dog is fresh, your teeth actually cut through the casing, the condiments are a dazzling array of colors and aroma, and the poppy seed bun steamed to perfection. Steaming the bun is as critical as delicately adorning the onions and relish. It takes timing and balance not unlike a Chicago Bears linebacker wedging his way through the Packers offensive line.
I was third in line at Cononate's, missing most of the noonday crowd, which is reported to get over a dozen deep. I checked over the menu and clearly faced with a single hot dog for $2.75 or a pair with a drink for $5.00 opted for the obvious.
I placed my order and my Vienna hot dogs were plunked from the boiler and neatly laid upon the Rosen's poppy seed buns. They were properly adorned - my server knew the drill, and then with a well-trained culinary maneuver, impressed me by removing a pickle from the pickle jar, and with deftness reminiscent of the Madison Club, sliced my cuke with a cleaver from the 19th century.
The hot dogs were wrapped, bagged, and I was on my way.
So there is no suspense, let me say up front Conconate's gets a B, a very impressive grade as noted in previous reviews. In fact no hot dog served outside of the Chicago metropolitan area has ever received a higher score. From that review: "considering that 90% of the spindly wieners served as a Chicago Hot Dog would get a C or lower."
To elevate a Cononate's hot dog, two changes are necessary. The combination of the size of the pickle slice and its slight over-aging overwhelmed the fine natural balance and symmetry of the hot dog, bun, and other condiments.
For a detailed and scholarly dissertation on the cuke, I refer the dear reader to a previous posting: More Chicago Hot Dogs - The Pickle and Mushy Buns (Ugh)
My first hot dog was almost perfect, but a carry out hot dog must give the persnickety connoisseur time to get lunch back to the office or at least to a park bench, still warm.
These delicate delights need to be a bit warmer or better insulated, especially as winter approaches.
There was one other problem, but it does not impact the evaluation. My hot dog was prepared and served by a very pleasant woman, who could easily pass all of the restaurant code requirements of the 21st century. As noted in the review of the defunct, Mad Dog's:
...I suspected there was something wrong. Missing was the the grizzled knuckles, hairy arms, the sweat dripping off her just as hairy brow, topped by a paper hat that looked like it been used to clean her shoes. How novel; a Chicago hot dog prepared by someone who could get by the health inspector.

This is neither Poochie's or Cononate's.