A Chicago Hot Dog Review for Madison Worth Your Time

I sat down to work, but paused to read a food review in Isthmus by Linda Falkenstein of Mad Dog's Chicago Style Eatery. We had finished dinner an hour ago, but this was too good to pass up.

I headed over to State and Henry and marched in with a chip on my shoulder. These guys were in serious trouble.

I am an expert on Chicago hot dogs. I could claim to be the expert but prefer to avoid a confrontation with my siblings and cousins, all less experienced but who claim to be bon vivants.

I know my hot dogs; I have eaten them for almost sixty years. I ate them on the south side, west side, and north sides of Chicago. I ate them in the suburbs and in the ball parks. (No Chicago ball park ever served a real Chicago hot dog.) I ate them at Fluky's, Stash's, Big Herm's (he had only one good arm), Little Herm's (two good arms), a dozen places on Dempster or off of Western, more on Damen*, and all over Stoney Island. (The best was next to the Avalon Theater.) And I have a heart by-pass to prove it.

If you are over the age of ten, there are only two ways to order a Chicago Hot Dog - with "everything" (also "the works") or "everything but peppers." There are guys sleeping with the fishes in Lake Michigan who uttered the word catsup.

I watched the young woman take out the bun and carefully build my hot dog. Immediately I suspected there was something wrong. Missing was the the grizzled knuckles, hairy arms, the sweat dripping off her just as hairy brow, topped by a paper hat that looked like it been used to clean her shoes. How novel; a Chicago hot dog prepared by someone who could get by the health inspector.

She wrapped my dream and I headed out the door.

I bit in, prepared for mustard to ooze from the side of my lips and a few pieces of relish and onions to fall on to my shirt. It did. They did.

The bun: too few poppy seeds but nicely steamed. Not too moist, not too dry.

The hot dog. A tasty Vienna Beef that needed to be a bit warmer. Certainly superior to the imitations.

Onions - properly sliced and chopped, flavorful but still leaving me kissable.

Tomatoes - ripe and fitting neatly in the package.

Pickle spear - and that is what it was. It crunched very nicely but was not the classic new pickle or 'cuke.'

Celery salt - dashed appropriate for size of the hot dog and bun.

Day-glow green relish - proper color, stayed in its place and did not overwhelm the hot dog.

Hot peppers - I passed. After all, this was my second dinner.

My concern that a well kempt woman could not properly prepare the hot dog was not warranted; it was more than acceptable. 

I give it a grade of B-. Now that is a hot dog worth eating, considering that 90% of the spindly wieners served as a Chicago Hot Dog would get a C or lower.

As for Falkenstein's review, she should be banned from sampling any important culinary delight. Her lead is, "It's hard to get too persnickety about a food that's usually sold out of stainless steel street carts or hawked from boxes at ballgames.."

Too persnickety? Too persnickety? I'll show you persnickety.

The woman has screwed up priorities. Send her to the french cafes, the brat festivals, the pricey coffee houses, quiche and wine parties, and the upscale 'chop' houses. She has no respect for quality food and she has no business eating hot dogs, let alone reviewing them.

*opps. Thanks Steve.

Comments

[Steve Vokers]

You lost all credibility on the issue when you misspelled "Damen" Avenue... ;-)

The best hot dog I ever had was from the trailer that used to be on Lawrence Avenue just west of Elston. The name of the place escapes me, but I'll never forget the taste of those dogs... I wonder if it is still there?

[Anonymous]

Best piece I ever read on this site...makes me want to go eat one right now!

http://www.hotdogchicagostyle.com/ratings.php

[Mitch]

Great and well written piece Paul! Besides the hack writer from the Isthmus, you should read the horrible attempt at a review by Jason Engelhart from the Badger Herald:
http://badgerherald.com/artsetc/2007/09/11/chicago_dog_arrives_.php

Jason is from Minnesota and clearly knows nothing about Chicago dogs. I should probably cut him a little slack since he's a student and still has much to learn.

[George H.]

I won't tell your cardiologist if you don't tell mine.

[Adam]

Hmm... Might have to check this place out.. I'm a Chicago area transplant and miss the dogs down there! My personal faves came from one of 3 places... Buddaki's on Damen in the Ravenswood neighborhood, Portillo's, or Hot Dog Richie's in suburban Palatine.

-A

[Skip]

Having grown up in Chicago, I am in complete agreement. I always thought the best dogs were from street vendors who had carts. There was one in front of Independence Park by Irving Park and Pulaski that was great.

Next should be a debate on the best Polish.

Another great artery clogger is the BLT on pita bread at the place at Irving Park and Kostner, methinks. They manage to get half a pig in a pita. Amazing.

[bratwurstpages.com]

Hmm, I wonder what would happen if you took a good bratwurst and dressed it in the fashion of the classic Chicago dog. Nah, the yellow mustard wouldn't cut it.

[Jay]

Well said, Paul. Honestly, the only restaurant critic from the Isthmus worth reading, IMHO, is Raphael Kadushin anyways. Linda Falkenstein makes just about any restaurant sound unappetizing.

As for my favorite places for a good hot dog, I'll second Budacki's on Damen and Lawrence. You can get TWO dogs, pomme frites, and a can of soda for $5.75!!! I loved Demon Dogs on Fullerton and Sheffield as a kid,(though it's closed due to the Brown Line expansion.) I also like Byron's on Irving Park.

[Paul]

A thank you to everyone who appreciates a fine hot dog.
To all who sent in suggested haunts, I appreciate it. You never know when traveling around Chicago, when you might need to stop for a quick fix.

Yes, mustard on a brat is as bad as catsup on a hot dog.

Jay mentions the pomme fites. That was another reason why the Madison folks got a B- and not a B; decent french fries are an automatic part of the order. If not wrapped with the hot dog, they should be dumped into a brown paper bag, salted and then shaken - harshly.

[jim]

Sadly, Chicago itself has lost its way when it comes to its greatest contribution to American cuisine. A "Chicago hot dog" restaurant at the new Midway Airport serves...yes, it's true... GRILLED hot dogs, claiming outrageously that this is "Chicago style."

It should be noted that there are subtle differences between South Side and North Side hot dogs. The finest on the South Side: Carl's, on jeffrey blvd. It was great in 1965, when I was in high school, and it's great today.

Madison had a brief flirtation with the Chicago dog in about 1968 with Abe's Red Hots, just off State Street. Not exactly authentic, but not bad, and they DELIVERED.

Keep up the good work, Paul.

Jim -- a Daily Cardinal reporter who covered your noble effort to get the Peterson Administration Building renamed Twombley hall.

[Paul]

Jim...thank you , thank you. I am forever in your debt. I was in dire straits this week trying to remember the name of the little stand that Dad took me to for our weekly fix. The one next to the Avalon Theater. It was Carl's!!!!

They must have moved since the late 1950's. The fries were wrapped with the hot dog after the first fold and then thrown into the paper bag. If you ordered several hot dogs, the fries were thrown into their own brown paper bag. Carl made sure there were enough tasty fresh french fries to advance heart disease at least a decade.

As for Abe's, you are correct. Their stint in the late 60's and early 70's is to this day, the best effort at a Chicago hot dog in Madison.

[jim]

Close to the Avalon, not next. A few blocks away. Carls was a tiny shack when I was growing up; a few years back it moved into a slightly larger place across the street. Still the same family operating it. I made the holy pilgrimage a few years back and felt spiritually refreshed.

They served the stuff in a paper bag; the fry grease soon left tantalizing splotches that made you realize life was worth living.

[Dave]

Now if we could only get a good Italian Beef!!!!

[Brad]

Thanks for the review. I'm one of the owners and I must say I was getting pretty discouraged with the local reviews. Reviews are great for keeping you on your toes and learning what other people think about your business. Unfortunately, I think the reviews we were getting came from people that had never had a true Chicago-style dog before. A few things we took from the comments we've been getting are being worked on as we speak.
We should be delivering within 2 weeks. We purchased a POS system with mapping software that should be usable by November 26th or 27th.
I'm trying to find a way to do fries. Our space is only 650 square feet and I have very few places for a hood, but we're trying.
Our soups and side menu has expanded, as well as our local favorites menu. These are sides and hot dog toppings that are regularly requested like the Wando Dog. This topping came from Wandos "Bacon Night" (bacon, cheese and onion).
Also, we do have Italian Beef and Italian Sausage. This is the same combination used at Johnny's in Chicago (Chi. Tribune Best Beef and Italian Sausage). We use Scala Beef and gravy and their Italian Sausage. The bun is a little crunchy on the crust and fluffy on the inside to absorb the gravy when dipped. We also use Scala Giardenera. Our Polish is the Vienna Maxwell St. original. The only thing we can't do at the moment is dirty onions with the Polish, which we've substituted for sauteed onions and peppers. We've tried to keep everything as authentic as possible and hope you enjoy our stand. Thanks for all the encouraging emails!
Please feel free to emal me directly via our website at http://www.maddogseatery.com/. Again, thanks for all the feedback. We use it all to help improve our service and offerings!
By the way, my favorite stands in Chicago are Flukys, Weiner Circle and a fairly new stand called Hot Doug's in Roscoe Village. Best Italian Beef bar none is Johnny's Beef on North Ave in Elmwood (around 7400). I get the combo (Italian beef with Italian Sausage and Hot Giardenera) and an Italian Ice. Brad

[Annette]

Maybe what I've read so far is a Chicago hot dog of this generation, but certainly not of ours (born 30's-West side Chicago).

We bought our hot dogs from a vendor who plyed his trade just outside of his garage (I kid you not!), on a side street! And there was always a line of people waiting, once he appeared with his cart. Never pushed it, didn't have to. Magically, the people just came running out of their flats...no special time or day...remember this was an Italian immigrant who didn't pay much attention to the clock!

He performed magic, while we happily watched and waited...salvating! He never said a word but with the deftness of a Japanese sword-wielding samurai would chip-chop the finest minced onions, sliced tomatoes and cucumbers...yes! cucumbers! He was an artist...a performer! We loved it! The high priest of hot dogs!

Fat, steamed hot dogs (Vienna all-beef) on warm poppy seed buns, mustard, piccalilli (relish), onions, tomatoes and cucumbers (no pickles (German?), no hot peppers, no celery salt (what was that?), just showered with salt and peper and presented on a square of thin parchment, like an offering to the gods. Heaven!

[Annette]

Maybe what I've read so far is a Chicago hot dog of this generation, but certainly not of ours (born 30's-West side Chicago).

We bought our hot dogs from a vendor who plyed his trade just outside of his garage (I kid you not!), on a side street! And there was always a line of people waiting, once he appeared with his cart. Never pushed it, didn't have to. Magically, the people just came running out of their flats...no special time or day...remember this was an Italian immigrant who didn't pay much attention to the clock!

He performed magic, while we happily watched and waited...salvating! He never said a word but with the deftness of a Japanese sword-wielding samurai would chip-chop the finest minced onions, sliced tomatoes and cucumbers...yes! cucumbers! He was an artist...a performer! We loved it! The high priest of hot dogs!

Fat, steamed hot dogs (Vienna all-beef) on warm poppy seed buns, mustard, piccalilli (relish), onions, tomatoes and cucumbers (no pickles (German?), no hot peppers, no celery salt (what was that?), just showered with salt and peper and presented on a square of thin parchment, like an offering to the gods. Heaven!

[shardonia]

Does anyone remember a hotdog vendor named John whose business was located at 1559 S. Kostner Avenue, Chicago, IL 60623, in the late 50's? Your help is greatly appreciated

[Paul]

shardonia: I don't know how much work you want to put into your quest but here is what I would do. Start with a Wright's or Polk's Street Directory from the years in question. By address it will give you who was located there. You might get a business and/or an individual's name. With that check with the business directory's of the period. As a last resort see who has the city of Chicago's restaurant license records from the Health Department (and hope they are not destroyed).

[[email protected]]

Carl's.....in the 50s......Very small place... warm steamy...The old guy ( it was Carl) who made the hotdogs wore glasses that were always so steamed up, I don't know how he could see to put the stuff on the hot dogs....He lined them up on a piece of wood that had door handles to keep the steamed buns in the corect position to dress them.....wraped in paper and a bunch of fries.....25 cents each.....Oh yes A nehi....Orange drink.....I wish I had a couple now....Eddie Omens in San Diego

[Paul]

Eddie - thanks for the reminder about the door handles at Carl's. That was our spot.

[Eddie omens]

Remember....Carl's glasses had a crack on the left lense...and he tilted his head so he could look over the top....only the tough guys ordered the peppers on the hot dogs....Oh do I remember. The fries were usually a little soggy, however the right amount of salt and grease!......be well Eddie in San diego

[Paul]

Eddie - thanks for taking time from your busy and demanding schedule to contribute to the memory of Carl and this important cultural icon.

[Natalie]

Paul, thanks for the review! Just moving to Wisconsin, we weren't sure where to find a decent hot dog. Have you ever tried a dog from Pete's Hot Dogs in Lily Lake, IL? You can't miss the little white shack and patriotic hot dog cutout right at Rte. 47 and 64. I grew up on them and I've not really found a dog that compared. Their fries (with the skins still on) are quite exceptional . I highly recommend it if you're ever out that far in the suburbs. I wish they had one in Wisconsin.

[Kathie M]

The best were from a guy named Pete on the south side at 70th and Washtenaw in front of St.Adrians's church and McKay school. Perfection,especialy the perfect steamed bun. Just mustard, relish and onions. Ate them almost every day.